Gotta Get – Haagen Dazs

 

While visiting Tokyo be sure to make a visit to the amazingly well-stocked convenience stores. If I am out and about in the city I am sure to stop by a convenience store at least one, if not several times during the day. Usually for something to drink. The selection can be dizzying; coffee and tea – both hot and cold, fruit juices, pre-mixed cocktails, beer, and one cup saké just to name a few.

Needing a small snack between meals? Onigiri (rice balls) stuffed with a variety of fillings like uméboshi (pickled apricots), nattō (fermented soybeans), or “sea chicken” (canned tuna with mayonnaise). There is an impressive selection of fresh vegetable salads – great to keep in mind as many travelers seem to be craving vegetables while in Japan.

One thing worth making a special trip to the convenience store for is for the Haagen-Dazs mini cups. The flavors change throughout the year, so from time to time I like to see what’s in season. Currently select from rare cheesecake, melty caramel, strawberry marscapone, rum raisin, and pumpkin – Japanese kabocha pumpkin with a caramel sauce.

Don’t dig in right away. Let it melt just a little bit for the best flavor and texture of the ice cream, as shown on this commercial.

You can thank me later.

 

Nihonbashi Yukari Spring Bento

Chawanmushi

Nihonbashi Yukari is one of my favorite restaurants in Tokyo. Chef Kimio Nonaga is the 2002 Iron Chef Champion, from the original series. He is the third-generation chef of a kaiseki restaurant that is located in the historic district on Nihonbashi. His restaurant is about a three minute walk from Tokyo Station’s Yaesu exit.

On this chilly spring day he starts his lunch course with a savory, warm egg custard, chawanmushi. Inside of the custard is anago eel and it is topped with some grated ginger, which helps warm up the body.

I like to request a seat at the counter so that chef Nonaga can answer questions about the different ingredients and cooking techniques. He’s very passionate about Japanese cuisine and enjoys sharing his knowledge with diners. He doesn’t speak English so it’s best to go with a Japanese speaker.

The bentō lunch needs to requested when making your reservation. It is a mini-kaiseki meal as it includes a variety of dishes incorporating seasonal ingredients that are prepared using different cooking techniques.

One of chef Nonaga’s signature dishes is a Japanese dish made from chicken liver that is topped with keshi no mi. It is not served with the bentō, but we were talking about Valentine’s Day and chocolate and he paired this with some chocolate.

While it is called a bentō, it is an extravagant affair that is presented in a lacquer box. It’s quite a feast:

Sashimi topped with a nattō dressing that he created with an Ibaraki nattō purveyor.

Tender Yamagata pork kakuni.

Tempura of shishitō pepper, shiitaké mushroom, wakasagi Japanese smelt that is is rolled in komé-ko (rice flour) before deep-fried, and kakiagé – a melange of seafood and vegetables deep-fried in a little cake.

Rice is studded with benidaizu red beans from Yamagata, and more.

With the tsukuri, sashimi course, chef Nonaga puts some nattō dressing on it. There was also something crunchy. I asked him if it was dried nattō beans and he said that it was deep-fried anago bones. A great example that nothing goes to waste in the Japanese kitchen.

 

 

 

Nihonbashi Yukari is the rare kaiseki restaurant that serves dessert. This day it is a mattcha yogurt babaloa with a strawberry from Ibaraki, azuki paste, and wasanbon sugar.

 

And, as if that was not enough, chef Nonaga gave us a second dessert. A cookies and cream ice cream that had some ground coffee in it.

There are so many things why this is a favorite of mine. The location can’t be beat as it is in the heart of the city. Chef Nonaga is full of personality and sitting at the counter, I always learn new things about Japanese cuisine. The food incorporates seasonal ingredients – and many of it from Tokyo, including Tokyo Bay. Finally, it is a bargain when compared to similar restaurants. A client recently dined here twice during her stay in Tokyo and she wrote about it on her blog. If you go, please tell chef Nonaga that Yukari sent you.

Nihonbashi Yukari

Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi 3-2-14

Popular Donburi in Japan 日本の丼

Oyako-don from Tamahide in Ningyocho

Donburi 丼 are simple and fast meal. It is a large bowl of hot rice with toppings. We often make it for lunch as it is not only easy to assemble, but also easy to clean up after the meal. Many restaurants often serve donburi at lunchtime as an affordable option, often just “one coin” or 500 yen. There are restaurants that specialize in donburi like Yoshinoya (beef) or my personal favorite, Tenya (tempura). Many restaurants in the outer market of Tsukiji will sell seafood donburi, which is usually what we make at home as we often have fresh sashimi in the house.

One of Tokyo’s most famous donburi dishes is the oyako-don, literally “mother and child”, from Tamahide in Ningyocho. Tamahide is a fifth generation shop that serves chicken and eggs in a savory soy broth. The restaurant is so popular that I’ve never seen it without a line out the front door. Creamy half-cooked scrambled eggs dotted with juicy chicken is a comfort food dish in Japan.

The kanji for donburi is easy to recognize on any menu. 丼 As you can see here, it almost looks like a dish with something inside of it.

From the Asahi newspaper, here is a list of popular donburi in Japan.

1. katsu-don – tonkatsu

2. una-don – unagi

3. kaisen-don – fresh seafood

4. ten-don – tempura (usually shrimp)

5. oyako-don – chicken and eggs

6. gyu-don – thinly sliced beef in a soy broth

7. chuka-don – Chinese-style, often stir-fried meat and vegetables

8. tekka-don – maguro sashimi

9. uni-don – uni sea urchin

10. ikura-don – ikura salmon roe

11. kakiage-don – tempura

12. tentsu-don – Chinese-style omelet with vegetables covered in a thick, slightly sweet and tart sauce

13. anago-don – anago

14. tamago-don – raw egg

15. shirasu-don – baby boiled anchovies

16. yamakake-don – grated yamaimo and maguro sashimi

17. ma-bo-don – Chinese ma-bo- dofu (a spicy tofu and ground beef mixture)

18. buta-don – grilled pork

19. yakiniku-don – grilled beef

20. others

Tsukiji Market Cheap Eats – Tenfusa Tempura

One of my indulgent breakfasts at Tsukiji Market is tempura anago at Tenfusa. Tenfusa is on the same block of restaurants as the popular Sushi Dai and Daiwa Sushi. While crowds of people queue for a rushed sushi breakfast I like to slide right by them, push aside the noren and slide open the door to this tiny shop. Only two tables that seat four and a counter for five. The walls are filled with signatures of Japanese celebrities who have dined here. There are two staff, the tempura master who for the most part stands guard over the hot pot of oil. His assistant (perhaps his wife?) takes orders, brings out the dishes, and collects money at the end of the meal.

This morning the other diners are all fishmongers. How do I know? They are all wearing the official gear of fishmongers: knee-high rubber boots.

My order is always the same, anago don teishoku, the set meal of tempura anago over rice, pickles, and tofu. The dish includes two long pieces of anago in a crispy tempura batter that is drizzled with a sweet soy dressing. The contrast of the juicy eel to the crispy batter is what makes this dish so appealing. It is delivered as soon as it comes out of the oil so it is always piping hot.

Shrimp tempura here is also very popular. Hanging on the wall the menu is written on tall, narrow blackboards. While anago and shrimp are the most popular items, you can also add seafood like megochi, haze, or kisu. Vegetable tempura options here today included eggplant, sweet potato, asparagus, kabocha pumpkin, shishito pepper, and renkon lotus root.

While most visitors to Tsukiji Market want to have sushi for breakfast, for those of us who go frequently it’s nice to have a variety of other foods to choose from. Tenfusa anago tempura is hands down my favorite.

Tenfusa

Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #6

(03-3547-6766)

http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/24_tenfusa/index.htm (Japanese – with good photos)

Tsukiji Market Cheap Eats – Toritoh Chicken

While many come to Tsukiji Market for sushi, I prefer to have warm dishes first thing in the morning. There is a wide variety of restaurants offering up more than just raw fish. Toritoh is both a restaurant and a retail shop. The retail shop in the outer market that sells both raw and cooked chicken. The restaurant is just around the corner from the retail shop. It’s a tiny restaurant that seats six at the counter and about ten at tables in the back. 

Kara-agé is Japanese fried chicken. This version fries the chicken and then quickly dips it in a sweet soy broth before putting over a bowl of rice topped with sauteed bean sprouts. It is served with a simple chicken broth, tofu, and pickles.

The signature dish of this shop is oyakodon, literally “mother and child rice bowl”, or chicken and eggs over rice. 親子丼

The counter overlooks the open kitchen. On the stove there are several pots used specifically for cooking the chicken and eggs for oyakodon.
Other dishes on the menu include yakitori over rice, chicken katsu (cutlets) and curry, and an interesting dish of bonjiri which is the fatty tissue near the tail end of the chicken.

Click here for photos of the dishes and a map to both the restaurant and the retail shop.

Toritoh

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-8-6

03-3543-6525

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Tsukiji Market Cheap Eats

Where to have sushi at Tsukiji

 

7:30 – 14:30

Tsukiji Cheap Eats – Orimine Bakers

Tokyo is filled with many wonderful bakeries. I have favorites throughout the city including Viron, Gontran Cherrier, and Maison Kayser. As the city is so big it’s a good to have a knowledge of where the great bakeries are as you never know when you’ll find yourself in an area with great bread. Orimine Bakers is a shop to keep in mind if you find yourself near Tsukiji Market of Higashi-Ginza.

 

On a side street leading up to Tsukiji Market is this quaint bakery. I felt like I was back in New York City when I walked up to the bakery. It reminded me of the Magnolia Bakery in the West Village with its awning. The green bicycle parked in front of the green storefront for some reason also felt like New York City to me.

I was first fascinated by this shop when I saw the seafood “oyatsu pan” breads they produce including this iidako (octopus) focaccia with tomato sauce, a taste of the Mediterranean. Other interesting breads include a grilled mackerel sandwich, grilled salmon sandwich, smoked salmon sandwich, as well as a variety of pastries.

There is a wide variety of oyatsu pan (sweet and savory snack breads), sandwiches, croissants, and pan de mie. The friendly staff can help you to pick from their wide selection.

I loved this shirasu foccacia with shiso and sesame seeds.

Orimine Bakers is a short walk from Tsukiji Market. Most visitors to the market will take their breakfast or lunch at Tsukiji. However, it’s convenient to pick up some bread from Orimine Bakers for later in the day. Orimine Bakers also has a second shop near Morishita station.

Orimine Bakers
Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 7-10-11 中央区築地7-10-11営
hours: 7:00 – 19:00

closed Wednesdays

Phone: 03-6228-4555

http://www.oriminebakers.com

 

Tokyo Station’s Popular Ekiben 東京駅人気駅弁

Ekiben are literally bento from different eki or stations in Japan. Part of the pleasure of traveling by train in Japan is sampling a variety of local foods sold in bento boxes at major stations throughout the country. A bento from a coastal village most likely will showcase locally harvested seafood while a mountain village may feature vegetables harvested from the region.

At Tokyo Station there is a shop specializing in bento called “Bentoya Matsuri”, or festival of bentos (photo of shop here). The shop just opened this August and is already very popular. It is located on the first floor in the Central Passage (中央通路). It sells 170 different type of ekiben from all over Japan. It sells about 10,000 ekiben each day. Some ekiben are purchased by travelers transiting through Tokyo station while others are bought by Tokyoites bringing them home to enjoy.

Bentoya Matsuri recently announced the top selling ekiben based on the first two months of sales. It is interesting to note that five of the top six hail from the Tohoku region that was affected by the 3/11 triple disaster. Tohoku is renowned for its cuisine but this may also be a sign of consumers showing their support for Tohoku. The top six are here. Click on the bento name to see a photo if it’s not included.

1. Gyuniku Domannaka from Yonezawa in Yamagata 1,100 yen (Yonezawa beef)

2. Gokusen Sumibiyaki Gyutan Bento from Sendai in Miyagi 1,300 yen (grilled beef tongue)

3. Yonezawa Gyu Sumibiyaki Tokucho Karubi Bento from Yonezawa in Yamagata (Yonezawa beef)

4. Miyagi Ougonkaidou from Sendai in Miyagi 1,000 yen (anago, uni, scallop, salmon, and ikura)

5. Miyagi Umi no Kagayaki Benijake Harakomeshi from Sendai in Miyagi 1,000 yen (salmon and ikura)

6. Koshu Katsu Sando from Obuchizawa in Yamanashi 600 yen (tonkatsu sandwich – good even at room temperature)

Cheap Eats – Taniya Udon in Ningyocho 人形町の谷や

Udon is a dish we often eat at home for lunch. Udon noodles are sold in the supermarket as dried noodles that need to be boiled and rehydrated or fresh (and also frozen) that just needs to be blanched in hot water. While both of these versions are fine for a simple meal at home, there is nothing that compares to freshly made udon noodles at a restaurant that also makes an excellent broth that is served with the noodles.

Taniya in the historic district of Ningyocho is one of these places. Walking by on the street that leads up to the famous Suitengumae shrine it is hard to miss the handsome chef in the window rolling out the udon dough and then cutting it with a large knife. The style of udon noodles here are from the Sanuki region of Kagawa prefecture.

Tempura udon is one of my favorites. Seasonal vegetables such as kabocha, mushrooms, and lotus root are deep-fried in a thin tempura batter with a bowl of hot noodles. This portion size, the medium, was actually too much for lunch. Next time I go back I’ll order the smaller size.

The staff had recommended this bukkake udon topped with grated yamaimo, shrimp tempura, and a tempura-fried egg with a soft yolk inside. When the egg is broken in the middle the yolk spills out onto the rest of the dish. My friends loved this dish.

Taniya blog (with photos of their seasonal udon dishes). At the moment, the two seasonal dishes are a hot bowl of noodles topped with three types of mushrooms and a tsuke-udon where the noodles are dipped in a meaty “nikujiru” broth.

Tani-san cutting the udon dough into long, thick noodles.

Taniya 谷や

Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-15-17

03-5695-3060

The menu at Taniya.

Taniya blog (with photos of their seasonal udon dishes).

Here are tips to demystifying an udon menu.

List of ten popular udon restaurants in Tokyo.

Tsukiji Market Cheap Eats – Indo Curry Nakaei 印度カレー中栄

Half and Half (Karakuchi and Tomato Fumi)

For over 100 years Indo Curry Nakaei 印度カレー中栄 has been making it’s spicy curry for the market workers. The original shop, in Nihonbashi, opened in 1912. Nihonbashi is where the fish market was before it moved to its current location. The curries here are made from scratch and the portions are large, perfect for workers from the market as they finish their day. In the short ten minutes that I was seated, a half-dozen workers came in. They are easy to recognize from their knee-high boots. Another worker came in and ordered several for take-away.

Most visitors to Tsukiji insist on eating sushi as it is as fresh as it  gets. And while that may be the case, long lines are now the norm. On top of that, diners are crammed into their seats, are often only served a set “omakase”, usually for about 3,675 JPY, and rushed through their  meal. For that same price I would much rather wait until lunch time, sit down at a notable restaurant  in Ginza, the glitzy shopping district bordering Tsukiji, and be allowed to linger and take the time to enjoy my meal.

Which, is why when I visit I avoid sushi at Tsukiji. Indo Curry Nakaei has a simple menu of just three curries:

辛口 karakuchi – spicy Indian curry

甘口 amakuchi – sweeter beef curry

トマト風味 tomato fumi – hayashi rice with cinnamon, cumin, and other spices

It’s possible to order half & half which is what you see above, the karakuchi and tomato fumi. The pork curry, simmered for six hours, packs a spicy punch, enough to warm your body up now that it’s getting cold in Tokyo. The hayashi rice is slightly sweet from the tomatoes and other vegetables used in this dish. It is also a nice way to balance the heat from the curry. Note that the rice portion is large, so if you aren’t that hungry or are planning to graze in the outer market, ask for less rice “gohan wa sukuname”.

The tiny cafe has a long U-shaped counter with space behind it for only one. The counterman is a skilled multi-tasker; greeting regulars by confirming their usual order, explaining the menu to newcomers, serving drinks and curry, and managing the cashbox.  The kitchen had three staff, the most senior who manned the stove. And, not sure, but by the photo on the website, it looks to be a family affair. On this day, seven of the diners were Tsukiji fishmongers and three of us were visitors. The restaurant was very welcoming to us.

This popular shop is often featured on gourmet television programs. And bottled curry is sold to take home as a souvenir. If you can’t be bothered with queuing for your sushi or want to kick-start your day with curry, grab a seat with the workers from Tsukiji at Indo Curry Nakaei.

Indo Curry Nakaei

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #1

03-3541-8749

MAP of location within the market.

Other Tsukiji Market cheap eats.

2012 Best New Ramen Dishes in Tokyo

2012 Best New Ramen

Here’s a list of some of Tokyo’s popular ramen shops that are using new ingredients for unique bowls. Some of these shops are new while some have added new dishes to their existing menu or changed faces totally. Trends this year include shrimp, seafood, and using offal or fat from meat.

The name of the shop is in English and Japanese followed by the address and phone number.

1. It’s shrimp! Ebi Men Senmonten Kagurazaka-ten

エビ麺専門店　神楽坂店

Shinjuku-ku, Kagurazaka 6-8

090-3682-8074

Fermented shrimp paste, Malaysian belanchan, is the key ingredient to this ramen.

2. Tsukemen Gonokami Seisakujo つけ麺 五ノ神製作所

Shibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-33-16

03-5379-0203

Shrimp is used three times in making this tsukemen. The soup is made like a French bisque, pink shrimp (amaebi) heads are cooked in the lard, and dried sakura shrimp is used in the dipping sauce.

3. Motenashi Kuroki  饗 くろ㐂

Chiyoda-ku, Kanda-Izumi-cho 2-15

03-3863-7117

This shop is known for its abura soba that is based on miso. Amaebi is also used here.

4.  Ramen Enya らーめんえんや

Kita-ku, Iwacho 1-1-10

03-3905-6550

blog link with great photos (but not official site for ramen shop)

Very simple bowl of shio (salt) ramen based on a rich broth made with chicken, chicken feet, dried scallops, dried oysters, tai (sea bream), and sanma (Pacific saury).

5.  Menkoitokoro Ichimaku  麺恋処　一幕

Suginami-ku, Shimotakaido 1-31-12

03-6379-6455

blog link with great photos (but not official site for ramen shop)

Katsuobushi (dried skipjack flakes) is a key ingredient in making dashi, the basic stock used in many Japanese recipes. However, here you’ll find a very interesting samebushi which is made from shark. The flavor is similar to a katsuo stock however a bit smokier and not as fishy.

6.  Tsukemen Saidaigen  つけめん最大元

Suginami-ku, Shimoigusa 4-32-18

03-6795-5515

A very interesting fish from Nagasaki, arakabu (rockfish), is the key ingredient to the soup.

7.  Gyukotsu Ramen Matado-ru 牛骨らぁ麺 マタドール

Adachi-ku, Senjuazuma 2-4-17, Nakamura Bldg. 1F

03-3888-3443

Beef bones, suji (tendon), and achilles create a rich, meaty broth. The bowl is topped with sliced roast beef.

8.  Menya Kouno 麺や河野

Nerima-ku, Nakamura 3-13-10

Unlisted phone

Tequila in the soup and a generous topping of fresh cilantro make for an international bowl of ramen.

9.  Ramen Shii らぁ麺　波

Adachi-ku, Yanaka 4-13-12

03-5489-3389

A very creative use of vegetables for the stock make this shop worth checking out. The vegetables change with the season but have included in the past sweet potatoes, potatoes, onions, leeks, cabbage, garlic, and more.

10. Mendokoro Yoshitake 麺処 芳たけ

Ota-ku, Oomori-Kita 1-15-10, Iwasa Bldg. 1F

03-3762-1881

blog link with great photos (but not official site for ramen shop)

The chef here has worked at an Italian restaurant, hence the use of dried porcini mushrooms in the broth as well as for a topping.

11. Menya Nakagawakai 麺屋中川會

Koto-ku, Sumiyoshi 2-19-5

03-5625-5545

Dried shiitake mushrooms is a popular ingredient, but this one uses fresh shiitake mushrooms. Also uses apples, oranges, apple vinegar, and yuzu ichimi.

12. Painappuru Ramenya-san Papapapapain

パイナップルラーメン屋さんパパパパパイン

Sugnimai-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-12-1

03-3247-2181

blog link with great photos (but not official site for ramen shop)

This shop has been featured on different television programs recently as it uses canned pineapples and pineapple juice as well as pineapple as a topping.

13. Chuka Soba Tobineko 中華そばとびねこ

Toshima-ku, Sugamo 4-24-6

03-5980-8119

A very abura kasu tsukemen as fat and offal is used from beef, pig, and horse.

14. Jimbocho Kai　神保町可以

Chiyoda-ku, Kanda-Jimbocho 2-2-12, Sanesu Bldg. 1F

03-5215-5623

blog link with great photos (but not official site for ramen shop)

This shop was a former miso ramen specialist but now its signature dish is a curry tsukemen made with onions, garlic and curry powder.