January Japanese Seasonal Seafood 一月旬の魚

kanburi

 

January Japanese Seasonal Seafood

 

Happy New Year. 2011 was a very challenging year for Japan with the triple disaster in Tohoku. The country is ready for the new year to begin, for spring to bud with flowers and for a new start.

 

The seafood in winter is rich with fat as the fish protects itself from the cold waters. Some sashimi eaten this time of year will be a bit oily as a result. As always, we love to have most seafood as sashimi when possible, in particular tairagai and yari ika. Shinji in particular has a soft spot for kanburi or winter buri from Himi port in Toyama. He loves it as sashimi but it is also good as teriyaki or in the classic dish buri daikon – simmered with daikon in a slightly sweet soy broth. Kinmedai is also lovely when simmered in a soy broth as nitsuke.

 

Aozakana, literally blue fish, are the fishy fish in the mackerel family like saba and sawara. Sawara can be marinated in a sweet Saikyo miso and grilled, the miso helps to cover some of the intense fish flavor. Saba is nice simmered in miso in a traditional dish preparation called misoni. Shime saba is the term for saba that has been marinated in a sweet rice vinegar, essentially pickling it. Finally, each January we usually have ankou nabe, a hot pot of monkfish. We save the liver to prepare it as ankimo, often called “foie gras of the sea”. It is simple to prepare, see the recipe here.

If you click on the name of the seafood in Japanese you should be directed to a photo of it.

Akagarei – 赤鰈 flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)

Amadai – 赤甘鯛 tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicus)

Ankou – 鮟鱇 monkfish (Lophiomus setigerus)

Asari – 浅利 littleneck clams (Ruditapes philippinarum)

Benizuwaigani – 紅楚蟹  red snow crab   (Chionoecetes japonicus)

Buri – 鰤 Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)

Chidai-   血鯛  crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)

Hamaguri – 浜栗  common Orient clam  (Meretrix lusoria)

Hira suzuki – 平鱸   blackfin Japanese seabass (Lateolabrax latus)

Honmaguro – 本鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)

Hoshigarei -  星鰈  spotted halibut (Verasper variegatus)

Kaki – 牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)

Kanburi – 寒鰤 winter Japanese amberjack (see buri) (Seriola quinqueradiata)

* The port of Himi in Toyama is famous for its kanburi.

Kinmedai– 金目 (sometimes called kinme) splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)

Matsuba gani – 松葉蟹 spiny crab (Hypothalassia armata)

Matsukawa -  松皮鰈  barfin flounder (Verasper moseri)

Nishin – 鰊  Pacific herring (Clupea pallasii)

Oma honmaguro – 大間鮪 bluefin tuna from Oma in Aomori (see honmaguro)

Saba – 鯖  Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)

Sawara – 鰆  Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)

Shijimi – 大和蜆 corbicula clams (Corbicula japonica)

Soudagatsuo- 騒多鰹  frigate mackerel  (Auxis thazard)

Surumeika -   鯣烏賊  Japanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)

Tairagai -  平貝  pen shell or fan shell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)

Yanagi dako – 柳蛸 chestnut octopus (Octopus conispadiceus)

Yari ika – 槍烏賊 spear squid (Loligo (Heterololigo) bleekeri)

Tsukiji Market Holiday Schedule 2011

Just a reminder that Tsukiji Market is closed not only on Sundays, but other days this month due to the holidays. Here is the market calendar for 2011 and 2012. Below are the days it is closed for the next four weeks.

Dec. 11, 14, 18, 23, 25 (short day), 31

January 1-4, 8-9

If you are in Tokyo only while Tsukiji is closed, the next best place to go would be to Ameyoko near Ueno and Okachimachi stations. I believe (but am not 100% sure) that it is only closed on January 1st.

Grazing Tsukiji Market

Yamachou Tamagoyaki

Grazing is not really recommended in Japan. Walking while eating can be seen as impolite. But one place where there are lots of small bites for sale is Tsukiji Market. If you do want to graze here my only suggestion is that you step off to the side and eat before you move on. Tsukiji has become so crowded that it is safer to stand off to the side and finish eating. Here are a few places to get a quick bite:

There are a few tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet) shops at Tsukiji Market but this is the only one that I am aware of that sells it on kushi (skewers). There are four flavors: plain, anago (eel), kani (crab), and ebi (shrimp). If you want to try all four ask for the “aji kurabe setto“.

Yamacho 山長

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-16-2

http://www.yamachou-matue.jp/

Tsukiji Yakinosuke

Tsukiji Yakinosuke also sells food on skewers – grilled seafood. A variety like hotate (scallops), iidako (octopus), or unagi (eel). Beer is also sold here if you are thirsty.

Tsukiji Yakinosuke 築地焼之介

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-8-7

http://www.tsukiji.or.jp/modules/shoplist/shop_detail.php?shop_id=591

Kibun

I have a hard time walking by the large Kibun corner booth without buying some of these deep-fried squid legs (ikageso age). Kibun is famous for the variety of Satsuma-age (deep-fried fish cakes). I usually pick up a pack to make oden at home, and a bag of the squid to graze on right there.

Kibun 紀文

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-13-18

http://www.kibun.co.jp/

Tsukiji Market Cheap Eats

View Larger Map

Where to Have Sushi at Tsukiji Market

Tsukiji Sushi

Daiwa Sushi and Sushi Dai are two of the most commonly heard sushi shop names at Tsukiji Market. The problem is that they are so popular that they have such long lines, some queue for three hours. And yes, the sushi is great here, but is it worth hours standing in line? And I believe that you can get comparable sushi at other shops, and you’ll be able to relax and eat leisurely – and isn’t that what a good sushi experience should be? Here are some other Tsukiji sushi shops worth checking out.

All of the restaurants serve an “omakase“, usually about eight pieces of sushi that are all served at the same time. But to have a more authentic experience, order piece by piece. Ask for “shun no mono” or seasonal items.

Sushi Bun 鮨文

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #8

03-3541-3860

www.tsukijinet.com/tsukiji/kanren/susibun/ (Japanese)

Another sushi shop with a strong following is Sushi Bun, with a rich 150-year history as it originally started out as a yatai (stall) at the former fish market in Nihonbashi. It is currently a 4th generation shop. Sushi Bun only uses wild fish (tennen) that is domestically caught. The 5th generation daughter speaks English and can help you with the menu.

* Please see comments below. One reader went recently and had a bad experience here. No photos allowed at Sushi Bun and she said that the shopkeeper wasn’t so friendly.

Nakaya　中家

Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #8

03-3541-0211

http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/46_nakaya/index.htm

Another very satisfying way to satiate that craving for raw fish is to have a donburi, or a large bowl of rice topped with seasonal sashimi. Nakaya has a selection of donburi including an uni don of creamy, sweet uni. For a very over the top bowl, you can get toro (fatty tuna), ikura (salmon roe) and uni.

Iwasa Sushi　岩佐寿し (Note in a comment below that a recent diner did not have a good dining experience here. I have always had good sushi here so not sure if it was a bad day or what.)

Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #1

03-3544-1755

http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/09_iwasa/index.htm

The seasonal seafood is all wild.

Sushi Maru　すしまる

Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #10

03-3541-8414

http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/45_sushimaru/index.htm

Using wild and top quality seafood. One of their signature dishes is the “aburi jyu”, a chirashizushi of seared fish over rice.

Ichiba Sushi　市場すし

Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #8

03-3541-1350

http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/40_ichiba/index.htm

It is hard to resist the uni donburi or the uni and ikura donburi (check out the photos at the link above).

A post on Cheap Eats at Tsukiji Market.

May  Seasonal Japanese Seafood (what you should be eating if you come to Tsukiji this month).

Tsukiji Market Cheap Eats

Tenfusa

Nakaya

Toritoh

Toyochan

There are so many great places to grab a cheap and delicious bite at Tsukiji Market. And don’t worry if you can’t stomach raw fish first thing in the morning. Most of these places open early in the morning and close after lunch.

Here is a short list of some of my favorites:

1. Tenfusa 天房 is famous for long anago filets and shrimp that have been deep-fried tempura-style are placed on wide bowl of steaming rice. This is drizzled with an umami-rich sweet soy sauce and served with a side of pickles.  Tsukiji 5-2-1, Building #6 (03-3547-6766). http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/24_tenfusa/index.htm (Japanese – with good photos)
2. Nakaya 仲家 for donburi. Donburi are bowls filled with rice and topped with sashimi. Get the luxury bowl of uni, toro, and ikura, or if you are in the mood for something cooked, grilled or simmered fish over rice. Tsukiji 5-2-1 building #8 (03-3541-0211). http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/46_nakaya/index.htm (Japanese – with good photos)
3. Yoshinoya 吉野家 is a popular fast-food chain famous for its gyudon, thin slices of beef cooked with onions and a sweet soy sauce are ladled over a bowl of rice. A branch of Yoshinoya is in New York City on 42^nd Street. The first shop in the chain dates back to 1899 and was located near Nihonbashi. It moved here to Tsukiji with the move of the market. Tsukiji 5-2-1 Building #1 (03-5550-8504). www.yoshinoya.com/shop/tsukiji/index.html  (Japanese)
4. Oomori 大森 is a curry shop, its signature dish is ½ curry and ½ gyudon. In business since 1923, the restaurant only seats 5 people at the counter. Tsukiji 4-8-7 (03-5565-3704)
5. Yonemoto 米本喫茶本店 has been serving coffee since 1960. www.yonemoto-coffee.com. Tsukiji 4-11-1 (03-3541-6473).
6. If you are craving ramen, head to Wakaba 若葉. Wakaba has been making ramen for 50 years with a 2^nd generation cook. Tsukiji 4-9-11. (03-3546-6589).
7. Nakaei 中栄 is a 4^th generation shop serving up curry and beef hayashi. Tsukiji 5-2-1 building #1 (03-3541-8749). http://www.nakaei.com/
8. There are many standing bars for food along Shin-Ohashi Dori. Here you will find hormone don (grilled offal over a bowl of rice) at Kitsuneya きつねや, Ramen at Inoue 井の上, soba at Jindaiji Soba Maruyo 深大寺そばまるよ. Tsukiji Donburi Ichiba 築地丼市場 runs 24 hours and the grilled tuna cheeks is juicy and meaty.
9. Toritoh 鳥藤 is a 4^th generation shop serving grilled chicken over rice. There is a large blue noren with red and blue writing to the left of the entrance. Their retail shop is just around the corner. Tsukiji 4-8-6 (03-3543-6525). www.toritoh.com (Japanese)
10. Toyochan 豊ちゃん is a yoshoku restaurant famous for its omuhayashiraisu (ketchup flavored rice surrounded by a juicy omelet and topped with a beef stew).  Other popular yoshoku dishes include katsukare-raisu (tonkatsu and curry served over rice) and kanikurokke (creamy crab croquettes). Tsukiji 5-2-1 building #1. 03-3541-9062. http://www.tsukijigourmet.or.jp/11_toyo/#04 (Japanese – but great photos)

A post on sushi restaurants in Tsukiji Market.

Orimine Bakers near Tsukiji Market 築地のパン屋「オリミネベーカーズ」

Orimine Bakers

Focaccia Shirasu

Foccacia Iidako

A great little bakery near Tsukiji has opened up and is definitely worth checking out if you are in the area. The name of the shop is printed in gold on the windows, reminds me of Balthazar Bakery in Soho. You can’t miss its green and white awning and the green exterior. The breads range from sweet to savory but two in particular that catch my eyes are made with seafood procured from neighboring Tsukiji Market, both focaccia. One is topped with shiso, shirasu (boiled tiny anchovies), and cheese. The other has iidako (octopus) with a puttanesca sauce. There is also a selection of sandwiches. There is a map on the website, which is mostly in Japanese, but enough English to find the map and to see the other great breads.

Thanks to chef and author, Yukiko Hayashi (Gout Sensei) for bringing this shop to our attention! Gout Sensei’s website (in Japanese) is below. She is particularly passionate about soba.

http://gout.cocolog-nifty.com/blog/cat20852746/index.html (Japanese)

Orimine Bakers

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 7-10-11

03-6228-4555

7:00 – 19:00, closed Sunday and holidays

http://oriminebakers.com/ (mostly Japanese but some basic English and a map)

The Japan Times – Fish buyers biting again at Tokyo’s Tsukiji market

Tsukiji

Fish buyers biting again at Tokyo’s Tsukiji market

Kyodo

April 20, 2011

Fish transaction volume on the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, better known as Tsukiji, has returned to its levels before the March 11 earthquake and tsunami on a recovery in consumer demand, market officials said Tuesday, adding catches from areas not directly affected by the disaster and nuclear crisis are offsetting the absence of a Tohoku region haul.

The recouped demand also caused tuna wholesale prices, excluding imported tuna, to recover to an average ¥4,122 per kilogram in the latest reporting week after plunging to ¥3,328 in late March from the prequake level of ¥4,193.The volume in the week through last Thursday came to 746 tons, outpacing the 741 tons in the week of March 4-10, after plunging to 448 tons in the March 18-24 period after the disaster devastated the fisheries industry in one of Japan’s major fishery bases while also disrupting the country’s logistics network, the officials said.

The market officials traced the upturn to the gradual dissipation of the quake-induced mood of “self-restraint” among consumers and the termination of power rationing devised by Tokyo Electric Power Co. after the magnitude 9.0 quake crippled some of its power supply.

“Individual customers began to return to (sushi) shops from around last week,” said an official at the Tokyo-based industry association grouping 3,800 managers of sushi shops.

Sales also plummeted due to the nuclear crisis triggered by the quake, which raised fears that fish could be contaminated with radioactive materials released from the troubled Fukushima No. 1 power plant in Fukushima Prefecture, said Kenji Ando, a senior executive of one wholesaler.

At one point, our sales plunged 60 percent due to fears about radioactive materials, but they have rallied to about 70 percent of what they used to be before the quake and the number of traders at the market has increased,” Ando said.

Tokyo Do’s and Don’t's

1. Do visit a depachika, the epicurean food floors in the basement of major department stores. My favorites are Takashimaya (both in Nihonbashi and Shinjuku), Isetan in Shinjuku, Mitsukoshi in Ginza, Tokyu Toyokoten in Shibuya, and Tobu in Ikebukuro. An incredible variety of food is exquisitely presented. In particular, be sure to check out the wagashi (Japanese confectionaries) that are edible works of art. If you are hungry, grab a seat at one of the eat-in counters or head to the restaurant floor in the department store. If you are riding the bullet train (shinkansen) then give yourself time to pick up a bento from Daimaru’s depachika at Tokyo station. The sake department also sells small bottles of nihonshu or beer if you would like to have these with your bento. Be sure to ask for some plastic cups. Wait to eat your bento until the train has started moving. You’ll notice your fellow travelers doing the same.
2. Do go to the New York Bar and Grill. Made famous from Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation. Either have a drink at the bar while the sun is setting and watch the lights come up on the city, or splurge for lunch or dinner. Lunch there is a great buffet of appetizers and desserts while you select your main course. Dinner is a real treat with the city sparkling below you.
3. Do have sushi at Tsukiji Market. I suggest visiting the outer market. If you insist on going to the inner market, it is best to visit after 9 a.m. and to stay out of the way of the fishmongers as this is their workplace. Most of the Japanese follow these same rules. While here, do have breakfast or lunch, sushi if you are game, if not, plenty of great cooked food as well. Try Sushi Bun or Nakaya for sushi or Tenfusa for tempura of shrimp or anago (eel).
4. Do try the local sake (nihonshu), shochu, or even the local wine. A visit to Tokyo would not be complete without some local drinks, be it nihonshu, shochu, or the local koshu wine. I like the izakaya, Yamariki in Morishita, as it is where many locals go. It is famous for its nikomi, simmered innards and grilled meats. For wine lovers with time to venture out of the city, consider a day trip to Coco Farm and Winery, just north of Tokyo. There is a tasting room as well as a café overlooking the vineyards. It is open all year long.
5. Do try as many foods as you can, and be adventurous. If you are willing to try foods you have never had before, you are in for a treat. As an island, Japanese has amazing seafood, much of it never exported so be sure to try seasonal sushi if you can. If you like innards be sure to go to Saiseisakaba in Shinjuku, a standing bar that does amazing raw and grilled innards – perfect with some shochu. If you can, try shirako, sperm sac from fish, notably from the fugu (blowfish) or ankimo (monkfish liver), which is like foie gras of the sea.
6. Do splurge and have a kaiseki meal. Seasonal cuisine served in courses is a treat. My favorite restaurant for this is Nihonbashi Yukari. I believe dinner starts at about 10,500 Japanese yen. If you are on a budget, go for lunch and request the Yukari bento when you make your reservation (it must be ordered in advance) (about 3,675 Japanese yen). The bento is not kaiseki, but does include several different components of kaiseki in a large bento box. Chef Kimio Nonaga was the 2002 Iron Chef champion. He is very talented and passionate about Japanese cuisine. If you get a seat at the counter you can watch him at work. Tell him Yukari sent you.
7. Try exploring some of the older neighborhoods of Tokyo like Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, or Asakusa. The charm of these areas can be felt in some of the historic restaurants, some going back several generations, like Tamahide in Ningyocho.
8. Do whet your appetite for your trip by seeing some great movies like Lost in Translation and Tampopo. If you are into ramen, then check out Ivan Ramen, some of the best ramen in the city made by a New Yorker.
9. Do try other cuisines than Japanese if your schedule permits it. Japanese chefs do an amazing job with French and Chinese cuisine. In particular, Italian food done with Japanese ingredients is a match made in heaven.
10. Do plan ahead and do your research. Don’t miss the last train, don’t take a taxi from Narita to the city, don’t travel during rush hour, don’t book a meal at a restaurant that only has seating on the floor unless you are comfortable sitting that way. Try avoid your travel during the major holidays of obon, Golden Week, and New Year’s as many restaurants and Tsukiji Market will close. If you are in the city while a sumo tournament is going on, then do try to see this sporting event live. Summer can be unbearably hot and humid, in particular late July and August. Ideally, come during the cherry blossom season in the spring or in the fall to witness the colorful leaves.

Kaiseki at Tsukiji Tamura つきぢ田村

Tsukiji Tamura つきぢ田村

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 2-12-11 中央区築地2-12-11

Tel. 03-3541-2591

11:30 – 15:00, 17:00 – 22:00, Monday – Friday

11:30 – 22:00, weekend and holidays

www.tsukiji-tamura.com

A few blocks away from the market, Tsukiji Tamura is a top destination for kaiseki cuisine by third generation chef Takashi Tamura. His father, Teruaki Takashi has penned a book (Japanese and English) that demystifies many of the rituals of this stylized cuisine, “The Elegant Art of Japanese Food and Manners”. The main dining room has several tables and the noon meal is often filled with ladies who lunch. Private rooms are also available for an extra charge. Lunch is a bargain for the several courses.

Tsukiji Tamura

Tsukiji Tamura is just a few blocks away from Tsukiji Market.

Seasonal Winter Dishes

Just some of what came with this course is pickled renkon (lotus root), Tsukudani fish, nanohana (the greens), sushi wrapped in sakura leaf, grilled tofu with an herbed miso sauce, and octopus.

Sake

The sake is served in a wooden boat filled with crushed ice, and I love the fresh flowers. The attention to detail here is impressive.

Owan

Fish meat is ground to a paste for this fluffy ball in dashi broth with bitter greens and mushrooms.

Sashimi Course

Note how the squid on the far right is just slightly scored to make it easier to chew on. Again, the attention to detail by the chef is amazing.

Grilled Course

My favorite course was the grilled fish. Kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) is grilled and served in a broth. So simple, just salted, grilled, presented in a broth with a slice of lemon.

Sansai

Scallops with warabi (fern), takenoko (bamboo shoots) and a colorful dressing (I forget, but think it included oranges).

Spring in a bowl

This dish sings of spring with the takenoko (bamboo shoots) and green peas. The pink flower in front is nama fu (wheat gluten).

Shime

The rice course (shime) was in a broth with mitsuba. As you can see it comes with pickles (handsome husband not included).

Fruit

Strawberries are available year-round in Japan due to greenhouses, but you do see more of them in the markets starting in December and January.

Mattcha and Shiruko

And just when we thought we were done, as many kaiseki restaurants end with a fruit course, the kimono-clad waitress came out with a tray with a paper lantern and a picture of Mount Fuji (painted by the father of the chef). This course was a sweet azuki bean soup with mochi dango (sticky rice balls) and mattcha green tea. A great lunch and highly recommended.

Japanese Knife Shops in Tokyo

Kiya in Nihonbashi

Kiya Knife Shop 木屋

Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 1-5-6 中央区日本橋室町1-5-6

Tel. 03-3241-0110

10:00 – 18:00 (Sunday and holidays 11:15 – 17:45)

www.kiya-hamono.co.jp/english/index.html (English)

The corner shop, opened in 1792, has a sign in English, “World’s Finest Cutlery” over the door. The compact shop displays a shining collection of knives, pots, pans, and many things for the kitchen. Here you will find graters, pepper grinders, tweezers for pulling bones out of fish, as well as scissors and gardening tools. The friendly staff is patient and will help you to find exactly what you are looking for.

Kamata in Kappabashi

Kamata Knives かまた

Taito-ku, Matsugaya 2-12-6 台東区松が谷2-12-6

Tel. 03-3841-4205

www.kap-kam.com/english/ (English)

Kamata has a large selection of Western and Japanese knives, Japanese wet stones for keeping your knives sharp, and other kitchen gadgets. They will also sharpen your knives here if you live in Tokyo.

Tsukiji Masamoto

There are several knife shops in the market. Some of them are friendlier than others. Fifth generation Tsukiji Masamoto (opened in 1891) has always been on the friendly side and has an English speaking staff. Sugimoto Hamono has been in business for over 200 years. If you plan on going to Kyoto, the Aritsugu shop in Nishiki Market has a larger selection of items than the Tsukiji shop and may be worth the wait. Prices at all of the shops are comparable depending on the quality of the knife you are purchasing.

Tsukiji Masamoto 築地正本

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-9-9 中央区築地4-9-9

Tel. 03-3541-7155

www.tukijimasamoto.co.jp/ (Japanese)

Sugimoto Hamono 杉本刃物

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-10-2 中央区築地4-10-2

Tel. 03-3541-6980

www.sugimoto-hamono.com/en/index.html (English)

Sugimoto is another of the knife shops in Tsukiji Market.

Aritsugu 有次

Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-13-6 中央区築地4-13-6

Tel. 03-3541-6890

www.aritsugu.jp (Japanese)

Aritsugu has a much larger shop in Kyoto’s Nishiki Market. If you are going to Kyoto then you do not want to miss this store.

 

Be sure to read this short primer on Japanese knives:

Japanese Knives 101